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Hair & Beauty Warehouse Australia Pty Ltd
SMART COLOUR
The
chart is a simple grid layout and is very easy to follow. Simply find the
desired base
colour,
then choose the tone or reflect you’d like and see where these 2 lines
intersect,
like a road map.
Base colours run down the left side of the chart.
Selecting the correct shade of Hair Smart is as easy as 3 simple
steps: 1.
What
do I have? 2.
What
do I want to achieve? 3.
What
do I need to use?
1. What do I have?
o
The
first step is to know your client’s natural base shade, or what you are starting with.
o
To
do this, hold the base shades on the Hair Smart chart close to the client’s hair
and decide which one is closest to their natural colour. o
If
the hair has been previously coloured,
and there is a natural regrowth, decide their natural colour at the roots
first, then decide if the mid lengths and ends are lighter or
darker. o
This
tells you your client’s base shade or “what do I have?” 2.
What do I want to
achieve? o
This
is a matter of working with your client to choose a shade he/she would like, and
which would suit their natural skin tones. o
This
is the colour your client wants their hair to be, after the colouring process. o
This
is “What you want to achieve”. 3.
What
do I need to use? o
This
may be as easy as mixing your client’s desired shade with the correct develop
and applying to the hair, but sometimes we need to take other things into
account. o
%
of white hair. Does
your client have any white (colourless) or grey hair which needs to be covered?
If so you may need to add an amount of natural base shade to their desired
fashion colour, to achieve coverage. See “White hair coverage” section. o
Are
the ends faded to a lighter shade
and do they need to be refreshed? If so, you can mix the same Smart colour shade
that you will use on the regrowth area, as a demi colour mixed with 1.5%. Apply
this immediately after completing the application of the regrowth colour and
allow to process together simultaneously. o
Do
you need to add any mixtone concentrate or colour correctors to enhance vibrance
or correct any unwanted tones in the hair colour?
1.5%:
For demi-colouring, lasting up to 30 shampoos.
3%: To deposit colour only,
e.g. going darker
6%: For maximum grey
coverage, same level or up to 1 shade lift on fine hair
9%: 1-2 shades of
lift
12%: 3-4 shades of lift; use
with highlift colours.
General
colouring 1:1.5
High lift 1:3
General
colouring 30-45 minutes
High Lift 45-60 minutes For
coverage of resistant white hair, natural base shade may be added to your
desired Smart Colour mix. For
general purposes, mix ¼ natural base shade (of the same depth as your desired
end result) with ¾ Smart Colour fashion shade and add the appropriate
developer. In
cases of a high % of resistant white hair, up to ½ base shade may be added,
however, because the higher amount of natural tone will ‘flatten’ or reduce the
amount of vibrance in the end result,
it is recommended that extra vibrance is added in the form of mixtone
concentrates. See “adding mixtones”. Allow
you to lift and tone from a natural base 6 level or lighter, in one action,
without having to pre-lighten first or use a bleaching product. Use with 12% or
40 volume developer. May also be mixed with other shades on the chart to gain an
extra shade of lift. Mix
highlift 10 and 11 series in a ratio of 1 part colour to 3 parts developer to
achieve maximum lightening results and develop for a period of 60 minutes
without adding external sources of heat. The
10 series will lighten 1 to 2 shades, or from a natural base 8, and the 11series
will lighten 3-4 shades or from a base 6 or lighter. Mixtones
are concentrated additives which allow you to make your colours more vibrant or
to help you to tone down unwanted warm tones. Mix according to the strength and
vibrance of your desired result; e.g. between 2 to 10 grams of mixtone added to
your desired Hairsmart shade. Add more for a vibrant result; less for a subtle
result. •
The Yellow mixtone neutralizes Violet or adds a vibrant golden tone to the .3
and .33 golds, and the .03 and .32 soft beiges •
The Red mixtone neutralizes unwanted green or matt tones or enhances the .6 and
.66 series. •
The Violet Mixtone adds more vibrance to the .2 Violet Series and the .5
Mahogany Series etc. •The
Dark Grey mixtone intensively neutralizes unwanted strong yellow or golden
tones •The
Light Grey mixtone gently neutralizes subtle yellow and golden
tones. 10.
Clear The
Clear mixtone allows unlimited colouring possibilities by: ·
Providing
a colourless, clear base for you to add any of the Hairsmart shades and
personalize your colour result. ·
Add
the benefit of shine and gloss to the hair without changing the colour; as a
‘colourless semi-colour’. ·
Allowing
you to slow down the colour process on highly porous hair, minimizing the risk
of colour ‘grabbing’ on porous ends. Mix from 5 grams to 1/3 of the total mix,
depending on the desired result and the porosity of the hair. This is
particularly useful when toning lightened hair after a bleaching or lightening
process. Slowing down the processing allows you more time to apply the colour
evenly, before the colour starts to ‘grab’. ·
When
mixed with general Hairsmart colours, it can give the look of an extra
1⁄4
to 1⁄2
a level lift. Use it as part of your colour formula, in the proportions of
1⁄4
of Clear mixtone + 3⁄4
of chosen shade. ·
May
also be used with 40 Vol/12% developer as a gentle blonding crème. This will
allow you to lighten between 3 and 4 levels whilst retaining all of the hair’s
natural warm tones. Tinting
back: colouring darker When
attempting to colour hair back to a darker level it is important to replace the
warm pigments which were removed from the hair during the lightening process.
This is called a ‘filler’. The guide below will show you what the hair will
require at each base level. In most cases, when the hair is in reasonably
healthy condition, the filler can be added to your colour mix, so that only one
application is required. In these colours, your required mix will be as
follows: To
colour back to this level: You
need to replace: Add
to colour mix: Bases
2-5
red
pigment 5
grams red
Base
6
Red/orange
pigment 4
grams red + 2 grams yellow Base
7 orange
pigment 3
grams red + 3 grams yellow Base
8 Yellow/orange
pigment 2
grams red + 4 grams yellow Base
9 Yellow
pigment 2-5
grams yellow
o
When
you are working with extremely porous hair, it may be necessary to use a more
intensive filling technique, such as mixing your colour concentrate (mixtone)
with warm water and applying thoroughly all through the hair, before drying in
with a cool dryer (so as not to irritate the scalp with a hot dryer before
another colour process) and applying your desired shade over this.
o
In
these cases, mix your filler with 75 mls warm water, taking care to mix
thoroughly so that all colour pigment is thoroughly dissolved and apply through
the hair with a sponge or cotton wool. o
Make
sure that all hair is covered thoroughly and evenly as this will affect the
evenness of your end colour result. Use the table shown above to select your
required filler to add to your 75mls of warm water. o
For
best results, it is also recommended that your colour mix includes 1/3 base
shade + 2/3 desired fashion shade so that you achieve good coverage on lightened
hair, as this will replace the natural pigment which has been removed throughout
the lightening process.
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